Depth2Beam uses precision relief controls, interactive 3D previews, and production export settings that are designed for a laptop or desktop computer.
For accurate laser-file preparation, please reopen Depth2Beam on a laptop or desktop.
Continuing may result in a compressed interface on this device.Drop Your Image Here to Begin
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Best ForNew to depth maps — pick your artwork type and let us build the relief for you.
Describe a design and the relief model sculpts it from scratch — no artwork needed first. The result loads as your working image, so Auto Prep, every engine, and every export then applies to it.
Drop an image in the preview area above, then step through each stage yourself for full control over the relief. Steps unlock in order as you go.
How should height be generated from your artwork?
Fine-tune how the relief is built from your artwork.
Set overall depth and how it engraves.
Box smooths everything equally — softening real edges along with noise. Edge-Aware only smooths flat/banded areas and leaves sharp artwork edges alone; it's heavier to compute, so on large images or high radius values it can take a few seconds to update after you stop dragging.
Optional — crop to a coin, coaster, or other panel shape and add a raised bezel.
Download your laser-ready height map.
Solid-model preview of the current height map, base, and project outline. Height Scale shapes the grayscale relief; Relief Depth converts that shape into physical millimeters.
Split the relief into posterized vector cut-layers instead of one grayscale engrave — cut each from plywood, cardstock, or acrylic and physically stack them for a 3D relief. Use Preview Stacked Layers above to see the assembled result before cutting anything.
Grows each layer's cut path outward — and shrinks any interior holes — by half this amount, to counteract the material your laser removes along the cut line. Set to your laser/material's known kerf width (commonly 0.1–0.3mm); leave at 0 to cut exactly on the traced line.
This beta workflow builds one LightBurn project with a separate, non-overlapping image layer for every depth band. Review all machine settings in LightBurn and run a material test before engraving.
This count is independent from the Physical Stacked Relief console above.
Choose your machine and material, then apply the profile. These are starting values—not guaranteed production settings.
These files describe the overall relief or preserve the complete project, at the full canvas size — always the complete square/rectangle, even if a Panel Shape crop is active below. They do not belong exclusively to either layer console. Use these for the everyday case: sending a relief straight to your own laser.
These crop to whatever panel shape is active in Panel Shape above (a sized coin, a coaster, or a custom rim) — everything outside that edge is genuinely removed from the file instead of staying baked in as background. Use these when the height map itself is what you're sharing or selling as a standalone image, not just sending straight to your own laser.
You don't need to understand the whole console yet. Bring an image, or have Depth2Beam generate one for you — either way it guides the next step.
Pick what best describes your artwork. Depth2Beam will build the 3D depth map — you can turn it into stacked layers or a layered engraving project afterward.
Flat, solid-color artwork: logos, crests, line art, silhouettes, coins, and badge-style designs — black-and-white or bold flat colors.
Artwork that combines a logo or crest with shading, texture, or photo-style detail you want preserved.
Turn this artwork into carved relief before building the depth map — the Relief Generator re-renders it as a sculpted medallion. Uses AI credits.
All three choices build a 3D relief map first. From there you can also export it as Physical Stacked Layers (cut-and-stack plywood or acrylic) or a Multi-Layer LightBurn project — no need to decide that now.
Your artwork is re-rendered as sculpted relief. Pick how much freedom the model gets — you can re-run at another setting afterward.
Keeps your shapes and lettering intact and adds a carved surface on top. Best for logos and crests you need to stay recognisable.
Follows your composition while genuinely re-sculpting the detail. The usual starting point.
Treats your artwork as a starting suggestion and carves freely. Most sculptural, least literal.